Category Archives: Canyons

The Goosenecks at Capitol Reef National Park (Utah)

UTAH: Capitol Reef; setting sun at Goosenecks

Capitol Reef National Park Visitor Information and Map

Capitol Reef intrigued me. It’s a lesser known National Park, and an article on this beautifully desolate land is what first stirred my thoughts toward a western adventure with my kids in 2008. It would be the eastern edge of our driving loop, the point at which we would wistfully stare down the horizon, wishing for more time to explore it all.UTAH: Capitol Reef; road into Capitol Gorge

The drive from the Escalante region on to our next night’s stay was less than an hour but Torrey, Utah would be a much better base camp for exploring Capitol Reef National Park.

UTAH: Capitol Reef; sunset on cliffsThe Lodge at Red River Ranch did not disappoint. Once we’d checked in though, we shot right back out for a peek at our next park. We needed dinner, but no one felt like sitting in a restaurant. Sub sandwiches were our compromise, and we enjoyed the traveler’s version of “dinner and a movie” as we drove into Capitol Reef.

UTAH: Capitol Reef; cliff formationsWe were too late for the visitors’ center that first afternoon but not for the sunset. Our slow drive through the fiery landscape was a remarkable introduction to Capitol Reef. Every turn revealed something newly spectacular:

UTAH: Capitol Reef; rock sculpture

Absurd rock formations that sat like installed art at the edges of the road. Majestic pillared cliffs tinged into life by the low glow of a hot sun. And an endless enticing horizon, vacant of people and things, that made us feel like the privileged last few walking an emptied earth…

UTAH: Capitol Reef; Zach and Hannah at Goosenecks

Eventually, we made a reluctant turn back, intent on catching the sun’s final light at The Goosenecks Trail’s vista point. Once there, it was a short and easy ascent to yet another beautiful memory.

UTAH: Capitol Reef; gooseneck on sulphur river

Far below the fenced viewpoint, Sulphur Creek had steadfastly searched out a path of least resistance and carved out its twisting course of “goosenecks” through shale, sand and limestones. The wind whipped aggressively through the open spaces as the sun sank lower and shadows grew.UTAH: Capitol Reef; Goosenecks; sunset through juniper

Twisted junipers slipped into striking silhouette and the colors of the canyon below slipped through shades of warm before sliding toward inky blackness. We watched, and we waited. Reluctant to let it go but unable to hold it all except as a mind’s eye photograph.

Updated from September 23, 2008.

 
More album photos: Heather Dugan Creative on Facebook
 

Capitol Reef National Park: Visitor Information and Map

Capitol Reef National Park (Torrey, Utah) 378 miles of colorful canyons and ridges… Slot canyons, rock arches and monoliths Pick-your-own fruit (June – Oct) HC 70 Box 15; Torrey, UT 84775 435-425-3791 x 111 Park Website Park Hours: Open year-round; see website for details Entrance Fee: $3.00/individuals or $5.00/private vehicle Valid for 7 days. Annual pass available.

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Walk-Through Sand Sculpture


Roaming herds of pronghorn antelope were the inspiration for Antelope Canyon’s English name.  Nothing against the antelope, but the canyon’s Navajo name “Hasdeztwazi” (Spiral Rock Arches) seems a better fit for the whimsical geology that attracts photographers from all over the world.

Standing at the bottom of the first ladder in the Lower canyon, I felt as if I’d landed in the burrow of a manic, gifted sculptor. The swirled sandstone passageway revealed only the immediate, and as I edged through and around the billowing rock, my senses bubbled with a steady anticipation.  What colors and formations would materialize around the next curve, at the end of the upcoming ladder or… even just behind me if I turned to look back at where I had just been?

Creeping sunlight advanced across the sculpted walls of sand to create an ever changing canvas of colors and shadows.  It was an enveloping sort of art, resplendent with deep purples, rosy reds and vibrant oranges.  A silent studio where pockets of darkness and shafts of light interplayed in astonishingly lovely ways.  And yet, the twisting walls of Lower Antelope Canyon are forever an unfinished work. Water and wind will continue to carve at the slot canyon, softening its edges while inscribing their definitive patterned trails into the walls themselves.

No one is allowed entry into Upper or Lower Antelope Canyon without a purchased pass.  It’s safer that way.  As with any slot canyon, Antelope Canyon is susceptible to flash flooding from distant storms.  My photographer’s pass allowed me to wander at will, without the time restrictions and crowding of a group tour, but with access to the helpful suggestions of floating Navajo guides.  Their knowledge of the timing of passing light was as good as a bus schedule for this photographer hoping to catch the moving rays of daylight.

Updated from September 7, 2010.

 

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Ornithopod was Here

With the 710 foot Glen Canyon dam rising above us to the right, tightly tucked between red sandstone walls that shunted the Colorado River southwest to the Grand Canyon, it would have been easy to overlook a single slab of rock beside the metal dock-way to our raft.  But a student from Northern Arizona University waved me over and quietly pointed out the imprinted stone.  “They don’t want people to know it’s there,” he whispered.  It being the fossiled footprint of a three-toed dinosaur.

The 2009 discovery of another ornithopod-like fossil track way in the canyon may date the bird-footed herbivores to 25 million years earlier than previously recorded.

The Navajo sandstone of Glen Canyon is etched with histories of ancient people and creatures: primitive petroglyphs and prehistoric fossil prints,  hidden and revealed over time as the water levels rise and fall.

Updated from July 7, 2010

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