Hoodoo Heaven (Bryce Canyon National Park, Utah)
Bryce Canyon has lingered as a still-shot in my memory for some thirty years. One of those “perfect moments” from childhood that somehow attaches itself to your life and becomes a trailing accessory to it… So as we pried ourselves from our beloved Zion National Park and drove eastward on Highway 12, I quietly wondered how my mental snapshot, and our next destination, had fared over all these years. The heavy smoke that billowed ahead of us from just beyond the park entrance concerned me a little. Usually, you just get a park map and friendly smile upon arrival. Not a forest fire…
Bryce Canyon National Park Visitor Information and Map
But it turned out to be a “controlled burn,” unheard of in our generally saturated Ohio but a practical necessity out in the parched western US… My kids could comment more on the details of flames and flying ash. I was fairly focused on keeping to the road amidst the fog of smoke and fire fighters.
Bryce is a truly odd sort of place, and there was no gradual immunity to its wonder, even as it spread out in all directions.
Water is the predominant force behind the forests of rock spires and quirky formations. Freezing, thawing and rain have created this wonderland for the imagination -and will one day be its end, as recently illustrated by the collapse of “Wall Arch” in nearby Arches National Park. The towering pillars, “hoodoos,” are whims of erosion, captivating works of art as unique as individual snowflakes. Many have names:
Thor’s Hammer, Sinking Ship, The Hunter. Others stand anonymously as silent audiences in the natural amphitheatres amongst seeming cities of Claron limestones, mudstones and sandstones.
Yes, the imagination can run a little wild at Bryce, and each visitor’s unique vision seems to personalize the Bryce experience. My vivid childhood memories of spired castles rising above pink, red and orange people brought me back -with my own children this time.
Intermittent rumbling soon lent a deeper hue to the sky as we hiked the Queen’s Garden and Navajo Trails. Eventually, I shoved the camera into our dry bag, and we raced for cover from a pelting storm!
But even this unforeseen event was a lively adventure at Bryce. We huddled on almost-dry dirt under tall rock totems with strangers from all over the globe. Our favorite new friend from the Netherlands 
joked that, when it rained in his country, they simply built dams. And he then proceeded to do so, channeling a rippling stream of red water away from our feet by aligning rocks and mud with his walking stick and a muddy foot.
When it began to hail with some intensity we leaned back into the sticky rock walls, found drier spots for the damp ones amongst us and shared our recent adventures. Less fortunate hikers trudged up and then past our cliff’s edge perch as we finally reached a “no vacancy” in terms of available dry shelter. The downpour was steady and included cold cold rain, hail and occasional falling rocks, released from above as part of the continual cycle of erosion.
A faint lull in the deluge finally prompted a few of us to run and slide up the slippery red slopes that would lead us out of the soaking canyon. The uphill run though driving rain was a little longer than we’d thought. And we emerged a little further from our car than we’d thought. But the
whole adventure was also even more fun than we thought it could be!
Completely saturated and splattered with red mud, we sipped steaming hot chocolate and watched for pronghorn deer on our drive out and on to our next night’s stay. The steady rain made Bryce a brief stop, but those mystical hoodoos enfolded by dramatic stormy skies also made it a one-of-a-kind memory.
Bryce Canyon National Park Visitor Information and Map
Bryce Canyon National Park, Utah Park Website
“Hoodoo Heaven” – Quirky formations and whims of erosion in striking shades of red, orange and pink…
PO Box 640201; Bryce Canyon UT 84764-0201
435-835-5322Park Hours: 24 hours/day all year (Call for Visitor Center hours and weather-related road closings)
Entrance Fee: $25/vehicle permit (valid for 7 days) Annual Pass available View Larger Map
