http://www.heatherdugan.com/blogNEW Travels and Journeys... Fri, 30 Jul 2010 17:27:31 +0000 en hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.0.1 Copyright © 2010 Footsteps heather@heatherdugan.com (Heather Dugan) heather@heatherdugan.com (Heather Dugan) posts 1440 http://www.heatherdugan.com/blogNEW/wp-content/plugins/podpress/images/powered_by_podpress.jpg http://www.heatherdugan.com/blogNEW 144 144 Footsteps Travels and Journeys... Travel, outdoors, adventure, Heather, Dugan, stories Heather Dugan Heather Dugan heather@heatherdugan.com no no http://www.heatherdugan.com/blogNEW/2009/11/16/come-back-soon/ http://www.heatherdugan.com/blogNEW/2009/11/16/come-back-soon/#comments Mon, 16 Nov 2009 15:25:51 +0000 Heather Dugan http://www.heatherdugan.com/blogNEW/?p=2924 http://www.heatherdugan.com/blogNEW/2009/11/16/come-back-soon/feed/ 17 1:22 Actually releasing it into the hands of a postal clerk will be mentally challenging, but I'm ready to try.  I've been carrying around my completed ... Actually releasing it into the hands of a postal clerk will be mentally challenging, but I'm ready to try.  I've been carrying around my completed passport renewal form for a good three months now.  I secured the necessary unflattering 2x2 photo this weekend, courtesy of Walgreens.  Size was the only actual mandate.  The washed-out slightly stunned result was just lucky, I guess. Now comes the difficult part: relinquishing my current passport for renewal.  I am in the early planning stages of my next trip. My target date isn't until next spring. This shouldn't be a big deal. But, what if...?   Spontaneity keeps life interesting.  And for at least two weeks, and maybe longer -my spontaneity will be confined to the borders of my own country. If something international comes up before the return post, I'll feel like the kid lacking a permission slip for the class trip. My neighbor just went through the renewal process and assures me that his passport made the journey back and forth within two weeks.   My last passport experience almost required congressional intervention, so I'm understandably hesitant.  But tomorrow morning, I'm taking the plunge.  As long as no one in the Bureau of Consular Affairs stops to laugh at the photos, I should be travel-ready in plenty of time. Over the Border (and Through the Woods...) Heather Dugan no no http://www.heatherdugan.com/blogNEW/2009/05/16/maybe-mexico-the-royal-playa-del-carmen/ http://www.heatherdugan.com/blogNEW/2009/05/16/maybe-mexico-the-royal-playa-del-carmen/#comments Sat, 16 May 2009 16:52:49 +0000 Heather Dugan http://www.heatherdugan.com/blog/adventures/maybe-mexico-the-royal-playa-del-carmen/ http://www.heatherdugan.com/blogNEW/2009/05/16/maybe-mexico-the-royal-playa-del-carmen/feed/ 10 2:23 Several Mexican resorts are offering a "flu-free guarantee" in hopes of stemming national tourism losses that could total 4 billion in 2009.  Travel to more ... Several Mexican resorts are offering a "flu-free guarantee" in hopes of stemming national tourism losses that could total 4 billion in 2009.  Travel to more than twenty resorts booked by June 30  for this calendar year is eligible for the offer of three free vacations should a traveler become ill with a verified case of swine flu. The Royal Playa Del Carmen is among the properties offering this incentive to hesitant vacationers with additional deep discounts and promotions listed on the resort website.  Having recently enjoyed the endless amenities of this luxury resort last December, I can attest to the excellent values of the current vacation offers -regardless of the money back (in the form of future travel) guarantee. The Royal's palatial suites, most of which are ocean-view or oceanfront, include enormous in-room jacuzzis and terraces overlooking the Caribbean Sea.  Rose petals, artistic towel "swans" and daily aroma therapy embellished our already delightful room, but the prize was most definitely the view of ever-blue water framed by rippling sheers. All-inclusive resorts are the norm in Mexico's resort areas; the quality of included fare can range from mediocre on up to exceptional.  We found the extensive beverage and restaurant service at the Royal Playa Del Carmen to be consistently very good to excellent.  We especially enjoyed our breezy lunches at Pelicanos on the beach and the fusian fare at Asianos.  The fresh fruit, Mexican cuisine and outstanding made-to-order omelets at Spice gave it our top vote for breakfast.  A well-equipped spa/fitness facility, watersports and a long beach -perfect for running and walking- made keeping up our exercise routines easy, and Playa Del Carmen was but a wander away -roughly a one block walk from the resort property. A billowing breeze, crescent of shoreline and clear blue sea are the only true essentials for a perfect beach day.  Add in a few unexpected delights such as frozen sugared grapes proffered on a passing tray and canopied beach beds -and one begins to understand the quiet joys of an adults-only resort. Note the inviting plank swings dangling in front of a beach side bar and know that the child lives on in many of these adults... More on Playa Del Carmen More on MEXICO Lodging, Playa del Carmen, Running/Health & Fitness, Seascapes, Snorkeling/Swimming Heather Dugan no no http://www.heatherdugan.com/blogNEW/2009/03/18/magic-in-the-marietas/ http://www.heatherdugan.com/blogNEW/2009/03/18/magic-in-the-marietas/#comments Thu, 19 Mar 2009 00:28:25 +0000 Heather Dugan http://www.heatherdugan.com/blog/adventures/magic-in-the-marietas/ http://www.heatherdugan.com/blogNEW/2009/03/18/magic-in-the-marietas/feed/ 11 3:36 ...As our sailboat neared the Marietas Islands, schools of jellyfish amended the captain's chosen snorkeling spots twice.  Just as well.  While I wouldn't trade ... ...As our sailboat neared the Marietas Islands, schools of jellyfish amended the captain's chosen snorkeling spots twice.  Just as well.  While I wouldn't trade memories of an accidental swim through tiny diaphanous sea jellies a few years ago, I remember with equal clarity their lingering stings along my upper lip! My solitary week in Nuevo Vallarta had etched some bold new strokes into who I knew myself to be. I had flown through jungle canopy on zip lines, negotiated city buses and explored Puerto Vallarta on foot. I had kayaked in the Pacific Ocean and run miles along the golden crescent shore of Banderas Bay.  Talking to strangers had yielded vibrant vignettes of lives far removed from my own, and lively music had set rhythms in my heart that made hope dance in directions my feet longed to follow. ~And, here I now floated near rocky protrusions called the Marietas Islands. Other-worldly.  Agave and other similarly scrubby brush covered craggy rock masses punctuated by arches and overlooks.  The cliffs seemed a breathing being beneath the constant motion of landing and launching sea birds.  Most had specially coated feathers for ocean plunges.  Frigates, not so biologically equipped, added drama by thieving fresh fish from the mouths of successful divers.  As we slowly made our way around the largest island to a final snorkeling spot, I finally spotted my first blue footed booby bird.  With actual blue feet, these stumpy little birds are found only in the Galapagos and Marietas Islands.  I was thrilled to then note several more perched on large boulders that were most likely the tips of outer islands. The Marietas Islands, popularized by Jacques Cousteau and now protected as a national park area, is volcanic in origin and surrounded by coral. We dropped anchor near a steep beach nestled amongst its cliffs, and a dinghy took us in range of the coral and marine life. Our guide kindly allowed me to remove my life vest and free dive down to where I could see my favorite fish up close.  The water was clearer than I had expected; I followed one fish after another until it was time to relax on the postage stamp of a beach.  A few of us explored the unspoiled island in our bare feet, ducking under arches to find still more caves and overhangs, wandering a splendid twisting geological maze. I didn't want to leave.  I wondered how long it would take  -climbing the rocks, feeling sand and sea swirl between my toes and watching fluttering sea birds- before the passage of time would matter again.  As the boat slowly backed from the islands, starkly lovely with their embellishments of swirled caves and arches, I cradled the moment.  I breathed in every sensory bit of it and wondered how it could all be so perfect when there was no one to "nudge" or share it with.  It was revelation to me that a tree could fall within its forest and that my ear alone could be enough to hear and mark its sound. And, it was pure freedom to know that bliss could wrap its arms around me, just me.  It didn't have to be a group hug. ~And do you know what?  As the music played on our sail back, that group from Appleton, Wisconsin grabbed onto the cables on the side of the boat and danced.  And it wasn't long until someone grabbed my hand, placed it firmly on a cable, and I was dancing too... MORE:  "Weaving'Wonderful' on the Bay of Banderas" "Beyond the Bay (The Marietas Islands)" "A 'Photo Hike' through Puerto Vallarta (Part One)" " A 'Favorite Day' in Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco (Part Two)" Heart-to-Heart, Nuevo Vallarta, Seascapes, Snorkeling/Swimming, Table for One, The Marietas Islands Heather Dugan no no http://www.heatherdugan.com/blogNEW/2009/03/14/beyond-the-bay-the-marietas-islands-mexico/ http://www.heatherdugan.com/blogNEW/2009/03/14/beyond-the-bay-the-marietas-islands-mexico/#comments Sat, 14 Mar 2009 20:25:37 +0000 Heather Dugan http://www.heatherdugan.com/blog/adventures/beyond-the-bay-the-marietas-islands-mexico/ http://www.heatherdugan.com/blogNEW/2009/03/14/beyond-the-bay-the-marietas-islands-mexico/feed/ 13 3:51 In my mind, it's better to "go" than to wait for that perfect someday.  Branches of my family tree droop with somebodies who waited upon ... In my mind, it's better to "go" than to wait for that perfect someday.  Branches of my family tree droop with somebodies who waited upon "somedays" that never came.  And so, when the choice is between traveling by myself or staying home, I water my plants and pack a bag.  Faced with a full week of unfettered days a few years ago,  I opted for Nuevo Vallarta and some time with a new favorite friend, Me.  On one of my final days, I joined a group sailing out of Banderas Bay toward the Marietas Islands. One interesting element of traveling alone is the way it enables one to drift in and out of conversations.  You can listen to others -or ignore them.  You can talk with those around you or live inside yourself. You can think or merely observe as your senses soak in the impressions of each moment.  The optimal method to achieving this mental utopia is to situate oneself within groups of a certain size.  My sailing trip from Nuevo Vallarta to the Marietas Islands violated that self-imposed standard by at least one hundred people.  The gleaming wood sailing vessel was elegant, classic, but unfortunately, much smaller than I had expected and hoped for...  My fellow passengers numbered only twenty and included cozy couples, a family of four and an extended family group of about twelve from Appleton, Wisconsin.  -But the morning sun was warming up a perfect day, and it was infinitely better to be there alone than to not be there at all.  I settled onto a white canvas cushion and floated into my own thoughts as we sailed out onto Banderas Bay. Grief over the closely-timed deaths of my parents, grandfather and marriage had created a watery barrier around my moments of joy and muffled its volume.  I was no longer somebody's daughter, nor anyone's wife.  And for this week, I was a mother traveling without children.  I was simply "Heather." The difficult part comes during the "look at that!" nudging moments. Sharing the remarkable seems almost an elemental part of processing it and saving it into our internal hard drive.  We define the extraordinary against those who are familiar with our ordinary zones.  That afternoon in Mexico, I knew I was sailing toward "extraordinary".  And, instead of saving it for "someday," I was ripping open the package and taking the first bite all by myself. The Sierra Madres merged into a singular broad expanse behind us as the sea sprayed the bow and the afternoon rolled into a brilliant sort of serenity.  I somehow became part of a couple of family groups, listening and learning to the early and mid-chapters of lives for which I'd be unlikely to read the endings.  Although the whale migration season had officially ended, two humpbacks swam in the mouth of the bay.  Our guide, Gustavo,  speculated that the stragglers were a mother and calf who had not been ready for the pod's swim north.  I've watched bus-sized humpbacks breach with dramatic splashes in Maui's waters. This was different.  We were further away, but the glimpse of determined mother with her child was a more intimate encounter. We cut sharply through the dark blue waters, eventually spotting the stumpy blobs of volcanic matter that are the Marietas Islands, but before we could get there, we were surrounded by about four hundred dolphins, leaping in the synchronized chaos of a feeding frenzy.  They circled us again and again in a choreographed parade of a dance.  I'd never seen so many of the mammals at once. The largest island loomed ahead like an overly puffed and then squashed marshmallow... Next time, I'll share the magic of the Marietas and what that meant for me. I know... I know!!  Next time, I promise! Heart-to-Heart, Nuevo Vallarta, Puerto Vallarta, Seascapes, Snorkeling/Swimming, Table for One, The Marietas Islands Heather Dugan no no http://www.heatherdugan.com/blogNEW/2009/03/05/weaving-wonderful-on-the-bay-of-banderas/ http://www.heatherdugan.com/blogNEW/2009/03/05/weaving-wonderful-on-the-bay-of-banderas/#comments Thu, 05 Mar 2009 19:51:43 +0000 Heather Dugan http://www.heatherdugan.com/blog/seascapes/weaving-wonderful-on-the-bay-of-banderas/ http://www.heatherdugan.com/blogNEW/2009/03/05/weaving-wonderful-on-the-bay-of-banderas/feed/ 8 2:05 It happened on the day I broke my own primary rule for solo travel.  It was pivotal.  It was perfect.  And it was all mine.  ... It happened on the day I broke my own primary rule for solo travel.  It was pivotal.  It was perfect.  And it was all mine.  I told an old friend about it over lunch last week and sailed through the splendid memory all over again. I was in Nuevo Vallarta, Mexico, reweaving my life into something that would fit for the next several years.  My kids were vacationing with their dad, and I was utterly alone -with thoughts, a few personal goals and the Bay of Banderas.  I had already done a lot of exploring: both inside and out.  I had navigated city buses to Puerto Vallarta, zip lined through lush jungle canopy, run miles and miles along a beach that sparkled gold in the sun and spent evenings tapping out page after page on my laptop. The one thing I hadn't done was dance.  For years, now, it seemed.  At this point in my life I danced only at wedding receptions.  Usually with my sisters.  -And there had been far more funerals than weddings lately.  It seemed a small and silly thing to miss, but the unlikeliness of opportunities did not diminish the desire. Against my better judgement on one of the last days of my stay, I signed up for a sailboat trip to the Marietas Islands.  This wasn't the first time I'd traveled alone, and experience had steered me toward blending within larger groups whenever possible.  It felt safer, it provided more options, and ultimately felt more comfortable.  But, my more reflective pace had cost me a spot on the larger catamaran tour; my only remaining choice was an intimate sailing excursion with 34 strangers.  In the end, my curiosity about the Marietas Islands was stronger than my fear of discomfort.  I packed a book and journal along with my sunscreen and camera and hoped for "OK". Next time, I'll share more about an afternoon that included whales, schooling dolphins, blue footed booby birds and... my pivotal moment. Heart-to-Heart, Nuevo Vallarta, Seascapes, Snorkeling/Swimming, Table for One, The Marietas Islands Heather Dugan no no http://www.heatherdugan.com/blogNEW/2008/12/28/playa-del-christmas/ http://www.heatherdugan.com/blogNEW/2008/12/28/playa-del-christmas/#comments Sun, 28 Dec 2008 16:28:48 +0000 Heather Dugan http://www.heatherdugan.com/blog/photo/playa-del-christmas/ http://www.heatherdugan.com/blogNEW/2008/12/28/playa-del-christmas/feed/ 12 1:26 Playa del Carmen, Mexico Map Santa might check his list twice, but I didn't have to do a recheck on the option of a Mexico trip ... Playa del Carmen, Mexico Map Santa might check his list twice, but I didn't have to do a recheck on the option of a Mexico trip just before Christmas this year!  My response was an immediate and emphatic "Yes!" (throw in a squeal or two if you want to be completely realistic). Panic followed shortly thereafter.  I lack the elfin staff that enables Santa to readily pause for cookies and belly laughs; could I really bypass the final pre-Christmas shopping days, returning just in time for its Eve? Umm... yeah.  As it turned out, that's not such a big problem for a non-recreational shopper like me.  More strategic shopping shaved off much of the reallocated time, and we aimed for earlier enjoyment of our treasured traditions such as "The Nutcracker" ballet with my daughter, gingerbread house-making with kids and cousins, and caroling with Grandma Dugan. If traveling to Mexico had required debiting seasonal joys, it wouldn't have been worth the "warm", but all fell into place, and I boarded the plane with virtually all of my shopping/baking completed ~ready for "wonderful" because I already had that cozy sort of feeling on the inside. Here are some photos from "downtown" Play del Carmen in the days before Christmas.  I hope to locate some more photos from previous trips to the area, because I spent most of our long weekend this time running, swimming, snorkeling and walking miles along the shoreline of the Caribbean Sea... ~counting my blessings in Spanish. Playa del Carmen, Mexico Map View Larger Map Heart-to-Heart, Playa del Carmen, Running/Health & Fitness, Snorkeling/Swimming Heather Dugan no no http://www.heatherdugan.com/blogNEW/2008/03/25/one-more-thing/ http://www.heatherdugan.com/blogNEW/2008/03/25/one-more-thing/#comments Tue, 25 Mar 2008 23:57:47 +0000 Heather Dugan http://heatherdugan.com/blog/general-interest/one-more-thing%e2%80%a6/ http://www.heatherdugan.com/blogNEW/2008/03/25/one-more-thing/feed/ 0 1:32 In about eleven hours, I’ll sink into my airline seat and thankfully remember the one thing I will have forgotten. I’m fairly predictable on ... In about eleven hours, I’ll sink into my airline seat and thankfully remember the one thing I will have forgotten. I’m fairly predictable on this. Something will be forgotten. So, to finally identify the one thing left behind or undone is generally a great relief. It’s become kind of a ritual, the “what did we forget this time?” routine. As I drove my kids to Asheville, North Carolina last November, I was actually happy to discover I’d forgotten to stop delivery on my mail and newspaper. That was an easy one; I called my neighbor and sailed on down the interstate pleased that it wasn’t anything of great significance. When the kids and I traveled to Akumal, Mexico however, it was a camera battery. Not so good. Wish I’d missed watering one of my houseplants instead… I’m not the only one. A neighbor once called en route to Honduras, certain that she had turned off her iron, but needing some confirmation as her family ventured out of the country. I called her back, glad to set her mind at ease on the iron, but sorry that she still had to figure out what she had forgotten. At least, I hadn’t discovered any children lingering in her house. There were a couple of years where I had to do a bathroom check and call out, “Danny?”, before leaving my premises because one of Matt’s friends had a propensity for wandering in and making himself right at home. I’m kind of wondering what it will be this time. I’ve faithfully added to the “do not forget” lists. If all necessary tasks and items make it onto paper it’s possible that, for once, I’ll forget to forget anything. I’m hoping… 1 Adult/3 Children, Akumal, Heart-to-Heart, North Carolina Heather Dugan no no http://www.heatherdugan.com/blogNEW/2008/01/11/blue-lips-in-bermuda/ http://www.heatherdugan.com/blogNEW/2008/01/11/blue-lips-in-bermuda/#comments Fri, 11 Jan 2008 21:24:12 +0000 Heather Dugan http://heatherdugan.com/blog/general-interest/blue-lips-in-bermuda/ http://www.heatherdugan.com/blogNEW/2008/01/11/blue-lips-in-bermuda/feed/ 0 4:13 I was headed for snowy Highbanks Metro Park this morning and ended up in Bermuda. Sadly, this was not a literal event. If I could ... I was headed for snowy Highbanks Metro Park this morning and ended up in Bermuda. Sadly, this was not a literal event. If I could make that happen on a Friday morning, my purse would hold more than its standard necessities of dental floss, crushed red peppers, and "lunch money". No; it began as a quick ten minute journey through some old photos, boxed and awaiting eventual organization. But, in searching for some ice-laden winter shots from my favorite running trails, I stumbled into photos from my first BYOB(C) -"Bring Your Own Birth Certificate"- trip. So, I guess Highbanks will wait… I’m remembering the thrill of getting up out of Ohio and spotting coral reefs through an airplane window for the first time. The trip represented a significant financial choice at the time (1997); slightly extravagant, but utterly essential to satiating intrinsic curiosities. I’d roped my ex-husband into some lower budget ventures in our first years of marriage, finding and exploring many of the natural areas in our surrounding states of Indiana, Kentucky, Pennsylvania, and West Virginia. An early trip through Michigan severely tested the limits of a young marriage, however, with me insisting that we could survive on the bag of groceries in the back of my Toyota, and my ex-husband emphatically pulling into an all-you-can-eat-buffet that consumed the rest of our meager vacation budget. He was right, it turned out. I have a teen-age son now and a much better understanding of the significance of real food to males and the whole travel experience (but bagels with peanut butter are food too, right?). Bermuda was a tangible affirmation of the value of travel. We still cut reasonable monetary corners on the island, opting for an apartment on a hillside over one of the more expensive resort hotels. We also rented mountain bikes rather than the popular motor scooters, but that was more out of personal preference than an economic choice. Peering down from a grassy cliff-side path and seeing actual tropical fish in the waters below expanded my horizons from ground level to ocean deep. We were at the edge of another world but had to get closer yet… We ventured gingerly down the sharp volcanic rock, fascinated by the clear cerulean blues of the seething waters. Eventually, from the edge of a calmer pink sand beach, we had to try snorkeling. Being novices to “tropical” traveling, we were unprepared but equally undeterred. I inquired about renting snorkels at a nearby hotel. There were none left to rent, but in what I found to be a charmingly typical kindness amongst the islanders, the desk clerk offered his own equipment to us, refusing our offers of payment. I was completely hooked. Previously, my perceptions of the ocean were limited to what washed up on its shores or touched my toes as I swam. In Bermuda, I discovered a whole new world of fish and coral and creatures. Mesmerized, I followed fish that first afternoon until my lips turned blue (It was April and a little early for all but the most hearty Atlantic swimmers). I simply couldn’t leave the water. Yes, I thoroughly enjoyed walking through the quaint, bustling towns of Hamilton and St. George. Riding mountain bikes along the Bermuda Railway Trail to catch a ferry across the Great Sound was also a great way to experience the island. The pastel-colored houses, profuse tropical blooms, and the whole British colony flavor of things was exhilarating to my Midwestern bred senses. But my most lasting impression of Bermuda remains my vertical view from a dead man’s float. It revealed an enchanting new world, often silent but never entirely still. A fluid nation, hosting vivid personalities with unique languages and vibrant color… It added new dimension to my notions of travel and gave me more than adequate excuse to aim for oceans occasionally. I love exploring the geology and geography of our diverse earth. My first experience with snorkel Bermuda, Seascapes, Snorkeling/Swimming Heather Dugan no no http://www.heatherdugan.com/blogNEW/2007/12/30/a-favorite-day-in-puerto-vallarta-jalisco-part-two/ http://www.heatherdugan.com/blogNEW/2007/12/30/a-favorite-day-in-puerto-vallarta-jalisco-part-two/#comments Mon, 31 Dec 2007 01:41:44 +0000 Heather Dugan http://heatherdugan.com/blog/general-interest/a-favorite-day-in-puerto-vallarta-jalisco-part-two/ http://www.heatherdugan.com/blogNEW/2007/12/30/a-favorite-day-in-puerto-vallarta-jalisco-part-two/feed/ 4 4:53 Recently, I wrote about a “favorite day” spent in Puerto Vallarta, Mexico. It began on a city bus that dumped me unceremoniously at the edge ... Recently, I wrote about a “favorite day” spent in Puerto Vallarta, Mexico. It began on a city bus that dumped me unceremoniously at the edge of a Wal-Mart parking lot. The "Photo Hike" (Intro)... A "Photo Hike" through Puerto Vallarta (Part I) And I was OK with that, actually... It was the bus transfer site, and I needed to pick up some bug repellant, being the “human of choice” for most biting insects. Armed with “hormiga”, the Spanish word for ant gleaned from a fellow traveler, and a vague notion to somehow illustrate “spray”, charade-style, I planned to pop in for the repellant and grab the next bus into town. Wow. Wal-Mart is soooo different in Spanish! It actually generates a slight thrill in me to be completely lost. Good thing with the whims I occasionally follow… Suffice it to say that my spray motion and “hormiga” pronunciation landed me in the deodorant aisle, my blue-shirted escort smiling broadly as he helpfully repeated my spraying pantomime. It took a manager and another walk across the store to secure the desired insect repellant, but it was more like walking through some kitschy art gallery than “shopping” as most of the colorful advertising was indecipherable to me. I scanned the splashy candy display on my way through check-out. “Hot” is to their candy confections as “sour” is to ours. It seems Mexicans will put peppers in and on about anything, which seems reasonable to a woman who carries hot sauce in her purse. How about chili-coated strawberry flavored gummies? Nothing is so odd that it can’t be perfectly normal somewhere in the world. I like that. Crossing the parking lot by foot was slightly treacherous. Motorized traffic in Mexico always feels slightly disorganized and terribly aggressive, but I safely caught the “Centro” bus into Puerto Vallarta . I disembarked with a huge smile in old Vallarta (Viejo), also called El Centro . After soaking it all in for maybe ten seconds, I instinctively headed east toward the lovely Banderas Bay . A waterfront promenade, the Malecon, gilded by whimsical bronze sculptures, frames the city in a splendid way. The sculptures, created by renowned Mexican artists, are more than lovely art pieces. They entertain and invite interaction as they sparkle in the sunlight. I felt the melancholy warmth of “Nostalgia”, a bronzed couple fluidly gazing slightly behind themselves, their backs to the Bay, and photographed some wacky “chair people” (top photo). One of my favorite encounters of the day came beneath the sculpture of a “blob” of a mom (the weight of stress or gravity of aging, I wonder?) calling to her two blob children who are escaping up a ladder to nowhere. In the US there would be a fence around the base of the ladder and a plaque absolving the city of any responsibility should someone be tempted to climb and risk probable injury or death. In PV, it’s assumed that a ladder is for climbing, and so there are rarely just the two bronze children on the skyward escape route. I photographed a couple of brothers playing on and around the metallicized people. One of them grew extremely fascinated with my camera, thrilling to see his own image on the review screen. I had to laugh as his eagerness to see his image resulted in photo after photo of him darting out of the frame toward me and my camera. After bartering for a handful of lovely Taxco silver bracelets and admiring some remarkable sand sculptures, I wandered inland to the Templo de Guadelupe Cathedral. Its filigreed crown commands notice, drawing devoted worshippers into a sanctuary, stunning in beauty and weighty with spiritual drama. Groups of uniformed children savored after-school ice cream on the sidewalks as I made my way back toward the oceanfront. I trailed a blanket vendor across the Rio Cuale, pausing to watch children swimming and splashing beneath the bridge. Playa Olas Altas lay just beyond: a beach rimmed wi Heart-to-Heart, Hiking, Puerto Vallarta, Seascapes, Table for One Heather Dugan no no http://www.heatherdugan.com/blogNEW/2007/11/19/a-photo-hike-through-puerto-vallarta-part-i/ http://www.heatherdugan.com/blogNEW/2007/11/19/a-photo-hike-through-puerto-vallarta-part-i/#comments Mon, 19 Nov 2007 18:59:06 +0000 Heather Dugan http://heatherdugan.com/blog/general-interest/a-photo-hike-through-puerto-vallarta-part-i/ http://www.heatherdugan.com/blogNEW/2007/11/19/a-photo-hike-through-puerto-vallarta-part-i/feed/ 0 2:54 One of my favorite days began on an uncomfortably crowded bus in Nuevo Vallarta. The "Photo Hike" (Intro) I planned to travel from "Nuevo", in the state ... One of my favorite days began on an uncomfortably crowded bus in Nuevo Vallarta. The "Photo Hike" (Intro) I planned to travel from "Nuevo", in the state of Nayarit, Mexico to Puerto Vallarta in Jalisco, a simple slide down and around the crescent Bay of Banderas with a moderately challenging bus transfer near the WalMart. Already in the midst of a major life re-alignment, I simply grabbed a couple of maps with my camera and figured that I’d find my path as it appeared. This was an absolutely amazing day. The people I met, the vignettes that played out before me... As the sun plunged back into the sea, I remember thinking, “Wait! I was going to have a fish taco!” Too late, though. By then, I was racing to catch the last bus home from the depot; a "Cinderella at midnight" moment but with flip flops and a pretty nice sun tan... Ok. Me and my camera... I hopped my bus that morning and immediately met Jessie, young mom of Isabel. Jessie was riding to her office job, in a bit of a struggle to support her baby and her husband as he looked for a sales position. I was both an encouraging ear and her “English practice” for the length of her bus ride. We developed a mutual admiration, sharing the common bonds of motherhood and a curiousity about the worlds beyond our own. A couple of guitarists in the back aisle of our bus generated a surprisingly energetic sing-a-long that seemed to revive even the most bleary-eyed commuter. I knew “Stand By Me”, the only song sung in English, and picked up what Spanish phrases I could in the rest… It was fun. Jessie and I would have enjoyed chatting a few more minutes. She spent the last couple looking over my map and haltingly advising me on my pending transfer. She made a slow exit at her stop, telling me that she hoped we’d meet again. An unlikely event, I knew, but sweet to hope for… In what felt almost like a benediction, she pronounced me "very kind", and said that she knew I'd meet many nice people that day. She was right. That’s usually the best part of travel for me... The random exchanges with individuals just slightly removed from their own “usual”. There were a couple of high school kids from Chicago then... Mom held the grocery list and a short leash on the schedule. The daughter was on the cusp of college selection and brimmed with her own possibilities. Her younger brother was deeply troubled by the bull-fighting phenomenon his bi-lingual, 70-ish grandmother found so captivating. He traded seats to better converse with me. We talked about a lot of things but always slid back to the bull-fighting. I silently sided with him, praying she wouldn’t compel him to watch another blood-bath on their annual vacation. One grandma’s “art” form; one grandson’s garish nightmare… We're all made so differently, aren't we? There's more. Much more... A "Favorite Day" in Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco (Part Two) *I'm headed out-of-town in the next couple of days on another one of those long drives that I find so challenging. However, my oldest son does have his temporary driving permit now, so it should be much easier this time (right?)... Heart-to-Heart, Hiking, Puerto Vallarta, Seascapes, Table for One Heather Dugan no no