Whales: Signs of Spring

Just beyond the colorful community of Provincetown, Massachusetts and nestled near the tip of Race Point is Herring Cove Beach.   As part of the Cape Cod National Seashore, Herring Cove is part of an ever-changing collage of unique ecosystems that includes tidal wetlands, marine, terrestrial and fresh-water habitats.

This beach is on the more safely swim-able side of the Cape, but is known for some public nudity to the left end of its shore.  Families would be advised to steer themselves to the right.

We visited on a (very!) windy day in late March, hoping to spot the first whales of the season.  I readily understood the dedication of volunteers who lodged themselves into deserted sandy bluffs and trained their binoculars onto the ocean waters.  Spotting a whale, whether as a single fin, a full breach or as a distant spout of water, is a unique thrill.  The steady migration of these ocean mammals to cooler waters is a sign of seasonal warming, and the three distinct spouts of water we spied that afternoon were a sure sign of spring’s welcome approach.

Whale watching cruises are a popular way to observe whale behaviors such as breaching (a full body leap up, out and back into the ocean), spyhopping (a whale’s head appearing above water) and sounding (a whale dive with tail flip).  Daily cruises begin this month from Boston Harbor and multiple locations on the Cape as well as from other Massachusetts shore towns.   Whale species include the enormous humpbacks and finback whales which will make for some spectacular splashes.  Few sights compare to watching a bus-sized mammal leap up beside your boat and plunge back into the depths beneath!

Hotels in the Boston Harbor area are convenient to ferries and whale watch cruises.  Splurge with a stay at the luxurious Four Seasons Boston or Boston Harbor Hotel and enjoy splendid waterfront views.

Cape Cod Things To Do

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Anchovies Anyone?

 

Not seeing themselves for the tourist attraction they’ve come to be, the sea lions of Pier 39 simply rolled over, splashed into the Pacific and swam away.

At first no one even knew where they went.  One of San Francisco’s landmarks had simply vanished. The protective signs posted around Pier 39 seemed ironic at best.  Staring down at the vacated wooden floats from the surrounding docks would have been akin to peering into a football stadium the morning after a big game.  Some sea lion debris remained -but the sounds and smells, and the star players themselves were notably absent.

The mystery was finally solved last month from five hundred miles up the coast.  Apparently, somebody had a hankering for anchovies and almost the whole assemblage had paddled their way up to Oregon for pizza toppings minus the pizza.  Not so different from driving across town for the better burger or doing a wine country tour really -some delicacies are simply worth a little travel time.

But, the quiet at deserted Pier 39!  Of 1700 animals, less than two dozen remained -the non-believers and youngsters who apparently couldn’t fathom such a land of plenty just up the coastline and who were content to loll about in their expanded personal space.

A few sea lions have now returned.  Sixty three were counted on Monday (February 21) of this week.  A virtual crowd compared to the fifteen to twenty stalwarts that lingered alone through December and January.   What might bring more of the popular San Franciscan citizens back?  Herring would help.  Diminished numbers of the fish are believed to be the cause of the great sea lion exodus.  The hope is that, just as the need for food took them north, it will bring them back to San Francisco Bay again in time for spring.

San Francisco Things To Do

The Radisson Hotel Fisherman’s Wharf is just one of several Fisherman’s Wharf hotels within walking distance of Pier 39. It features a palm-lined pool and an outdoor bar and makes a great home base for waterfront fun.

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